Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Max M Posted October 24, Posted October 24, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options HeySkippyDog Posted October 25, Posted October 25, Max M Posted October 25, I worked for independent shops, we had are own way of testing for stuff lol.
Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Only 75 emoji are allowed. Insert image from URL. Go to topic listing. Similar Content. Hey there! It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. Remove your wheel s before this guide 2. Remove the hood hinge 13MM Bolt , or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood.
If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. These are exposed so it'll be rusty. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension.
Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down.
Remove any remaining clips. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. Remove grill clip from fender Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well inner bumper Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck.
Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks! Borla Type-S installed - AT4 6. If the weld is broken it might cause a leak giving you a whistle at higher RPMs. If it isn't welded to the cat the shield may have, after smacking it so much, put a small hole in it giving you a whistle. If your sure you haven't lost power then that would be the next thing that I would check. If i'm wrong please let me know.
I'm always looking to learn, even if it's something that I think I know about. Thanks and good luck. Check the back pressure on it. What is engine vacuum at idle and at 2K rpm. For 80K or eight years it is under a federal emmision warranty and calf.
What is your mileage? Just replaced mine. One of the easiest methods of quieting and restoring a catalytic converter is to clean it. Over time, buildup in the cat can cause a blockage of airflow, resulting in unwanted noise and poor performance. These methods of cleaning will allow you to breathe new life into your old converter without spending a fortune replacing it. Then, soak the inside of the converter using a spray bottle.
Make sure to spray into the cat from both sides. Let the cat sit for 20 minutes or longer so the chemicals have time to work. You can use a hose for this, but be sure to be very thorough. Again, make sure to rinse from both sides. Drive the vehicle for about miles, trying to keep the RPMs around or higher for at least 30 minutes. Once the lacquer thinner has worked through the system, you should experience improved performance, and hopefully, the rattling is gone as well. It may seem too simple, but sometimes all it takes to clean out your converter is to run higher quality gas through your system.
If you usually use the lowest octane gas available, try running a few tanks of high-octane gas through your vehicle. It may be enough to increase airflow and stop rattling noises. If the heat shield is missing bolts or has become loose, it can cause excess noise while the car runs. This can be done by removing a few bolts. You may need to use some penetrating oil since the high heat can cause the bolts to be quite stubborn. Once removed, thoroughly wash the cat with soap and water.
If the inside is hazy, you can polish it with some high-grit sandpaper to ensure maximum heat reflection. Before reinstalling the heat shield, add some anti-seize compound on the bolts. Make sure to tighten them to the proper torque specifications. A universal cat will require welding, while a vehicle-specific converter will be installed with bolts. The first step is to douse the bolts with penetrating oil so they can be removed. Let it soak in for a while, then use a socket wrench to remove all four bolts.
Installing the new cat is just as simple. Set it in place and insert all four bolts, making sure to add some anti-seize compound to each of them first. Wrench the bolts down to the proper torque specification. The catalysts in your converter could theoretically last forever since they are not consumed in the chemical reaction.
Other factors can cause a cat to lose functionality or fail, though. Likewise, a misfiring cylinder can cause the converter to overheat and drastically shorten its lifespan. Short of these occurrences, your catalytic converter should continue to function without any issues.
There are some ways to reduce this cost. The parts are a majority of the total price, but you can get a cheaper model by purchasing an aftermarket brand instead of an OEM device. Also, you could save even more by installing the new cat yourself. By following a few easy steps, you can prolong the life of yours, saving you trouble and headache in the long run. Switching to high-octane fuel is the first step. This can help clean out your whole system, including your catalytic converter.
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